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Tamiya Toyota Tom's 84C

February 2007
RELATED TOPICS: TAMIYA | 1/24
Toyota Tom's 84C
Tamiya No. 24289
Model Type: Injection-molded
styrene
Molded Colors: White, gray, clear
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $31.00
Pros: Pros: Excellent decals and wheels with nice overall detail
Cons: Issues with final assembly; complex masking required; ejector-pin marks

This is a rerelease of the Tom's 84C from 1985. It's a nice, fully-detailed kit, but it's starting to show its age.

The parts trees are individually wrapped, including the clear parts, which are molded thin and very clear, with little or no waviness to them. However, I don't care much for the mounting pins on the headlight and taillight lenses. The taillight lenses are molded clear and must be painted with clear red and clear orange for the correct effect.

The body is nicely molded; the plastic is smooth, the panel lines are crisp and most of the vents are molded open. Those that aren't molded open are easily detailed with a thin wash of black paint. The mold lines on the body are minimal and take very little cleanup. My example did have a couple of minor sink marks along the top surface, near the rear end of the body. These did not require any filler, but did need to be sanded level.

The full chassis has good detail, but it had several ejector-pin marks that required filler and sanding before
paint. Most of these areas were fairly easy to get to, and took minimal time to fix.

The suspension and brake components are nicely detailed for the most part, and the front wheels are
designed to be poseable. However, after final assembly, there isn't much room for them to turn.

The wheels and tires are great - some of the best molded BBS honeycomb-style rims I've seen. After painting and detailing, I decided not to use the brake cooling fins on my car, because I didn't want to cover up those nice wheels.

The front tires are molded with smooth sidewalls; the rear tires are molded with raised Dunlop markings on one sidewall and smooth on the other. You have to turn the Dunlop lettering to the inside, because since the car wore Bridgestone tires. Bridgestone markings are provided in the kit as decals.

The interior is rather simplified, but portrays the interior of a racecar well enough. The seat has the belts molded to it, and they have to be painted or removed and replaced with aftermarket seatbelts. There are no foot pedals, but I'm not sure how visible they would be anyway.

The four-cylinder turbo engine is well done and looks great when finished. However, it requires a lot of masking and multiple colors of paint to get a good result. The engine would lend itself to a lot of extra detail.

The Cartograph decals are fantastic and lay down perfectly. The red areas across the body are provided as decals, but you have to mix colors to paint the areas around the window frames to match the decals.

Originally I painted the entire area dark red, but later decided to use the decals to show the result of what's possible by only using the decals. The only area that required solvent was the area at the base of the side windows where the decal curves upward.

The only fit issue I had was an interference problem with the side pods and the radiators, which prevented the body from sitting on the chassis correctly. I had to trim off about 1/32 inch from the rear edge of the side pod; then the body dropped right in place.
with ejector pin marks on several of the parts that had to be filled.

In the end I think this model builds up into a beautiful replica of one of my favorite cars. However, because of the complex masking and mixing of paint colors, I would have to recommend the model for a fairly experienced builder.

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