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Revell Germany Schlingman LF20/16

Schlingman LF20/16
Schlingman LF20/16
Revell Germany Schlingman LF20/16
Schlingman LF20/16
Revell Germany No. 07404
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors: Clear, black, gray
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $122.47
Pros: Parts fit; great details
Cons: Difficult assembly of wheels/tires and pumper body; injector-pin marks on compartment doors

Inside the kit box are ten bags containing 23 trees, with nearly 300 parts! Schlingman is the body builder, and the body sits on a Mercedes-Benz cab circa 1992.

The parts fit together with almost snap-kit efficiency. Indeed, some assembly didn’t require gluing! The transparent pieces are nearly perfect, and allow great visibility of the interior.

I recommend adding the transfer case to the chassis prior to the exhaust pipe (part L20 in Step 7). The pipe attaches to a point on the lower left block, not on the bell housing as shown.

The instructions also are hazy as to painting the muffler; it should be aluminum with gray straps.

Perhaps the biggest assembly problem was with the tires and wheels. The latter have large flanges to keep the tires on (similar to the wheels found on some diecast models).

I had to carefully squeeze the tire onto one portion of the wheel, and while I worked along the edge, press with firm pressure toward the other side of the tire.

The wheels should be painted aluminum, so make sure the paint is dry before adding the tires, lest it rub off onto them.

The tires are gorgeous Dunlop units that can be improved with a little sanding of the tread.

Be sure the mounting holes for the light bar are large enough to accept their mounting tabs. I didn’t discover this until after the headliner was installed, which made attaching the light bar more difficult.

The two delicate roof antennae are best left off until the entire cab assembly goes onto the chassis.

In assembling the equipment compartments, I recommend adding Part I89 to the floor prior to adding the compartment sides. Be sure the latter parts fit squarely and securely; any misalignment will give you grief later.

I also had trouble mounting the body onto the chassis; perhaps the only instance where the various tabs and pins would not go into their appropriate slots and holes. It may be best to attach the body floor to the chassis prior to adding the compartment sides.

The lower pump panel fits into the compartment before the upper panel.

The doors to the equipment compartments can be posed open or closed. I strongly recommend taping the doors to the equipment body sides when attaching the latter pieces to the body. But be aware that if you glue the hose dolly to the rear bumper, it will interfere with closing the rear compartment door.

The kit has two building options for the lower tool compartments. I chose the closed version, becuase the open faces of the compartment doors have some pretty serious ejector-pin marks.

There are nearly 100 decals to replicate one of three vehicles in service. I chose option 84 (volunteer fire-brigade Lohne), because I liked the prominent vehicle-number decal on the roof.

There were only a few fit issues with the decals. The decals conformed to the complex tread plate patterns nicely, and did not require the use of decal setting solution.

Revell Germany is clearly planning alternative versions of the Atego pumper body. An entire parts tree was left unused in my kit, along with some clear parts.

Fire apparatus builders thus have good tidings. Just imagine the body mated to the Italeri Peterbilt 377 or 378!


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