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Moebius International ProStar

RELATED TOPICS: TRUCK | 1/25
International-ProStar-box
International ProStar
Moebius No. 1301
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors: Gray, black, clear
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $79.95
Pros: Detail. Fantastic woodgrain decals for interior.
Cons: Instruction errors; inaccurate dashboard; major difficulty in cab attachment to chassis.

Moebius’ ProStar kit is the follow-up to the successful LoneStar kit, itself notable for being the first all-new big-rig model from a domestic manufacturer in more than 30 years.  

All new for the ProStar are the nose, cab, bumper, headlights, frame rails, roof fairings, and aero-skirts. Keep in mind that the hood, bumper and grille of the 15L-powered ProStars are slightly different from the earlier ProStars. The engine choice is, in hindsight, unfortunate, as Navistar discontinued it in 2012 because of emissions issues.

The instructions don’t note this, but builders have the option of a low or high cab roof deflector (I preferred the former) and baby Moon-like front wheel hubs, or more workmanlike hubs.

The 16-page instruction booklet has color photos showing decal placement and some helpful views of the finished engine. Also pointed out are parts that are not used, and it’s worth noting that many of the small lenses are given in excess, as builders well know that small parts have a way of disappearing.
A separate sheet has the color callouts. I found this to be inefficient, and I had to spend about 15 minutes noting the colors in each step.

A number of the illustrations show one side of the engine block, but a good number of parts are meant to go on the other side.      

The chrome plating on the kit is really gorgeous! Unfortunately, none of the chrome parts is marked as such. A number of the chrome parts, such as the fuel tanks and battery box/air tanks, are not chrome plated on the 1:1 trucks, so coat these with clear flat to mimic the more-accurate aluminum.  

I love the tires, and they slip right onto the 10-hole Alcoa wheels. Some superglue is called for, as the fit is a tad loose, especially on the front wheels.  

Placing the engine into the chassis was a bit nerve-wracking and required attaching the transmision’s rear to the driveshaft, then angling down toward the front end. The installed radiator should have a rearward slope.

Attachment of the tilting front bumper was problematic; it was difficult to secure the bumper via its retainers and not get glue onto the moving parts.  

The only major inaccuracy is with the dashboard assembly.  The kit part represents the automatic-transmission- equipped trucks, yet the kit’s transmission clearly a manual, and a stick shift is included. I simply omitted the stick shift.  

Oddly, the interior ceiling was the only part in the kit that was marred by excessive ejector-pin marks. On the plus side, the windows all pretty much snap right in, and make the painting the window gasketry easy. I used a black Sharpie for most of them.  

Everything in the assembly went well; in fact, most of it impressed me as having a snap-kit-like fit. Then near- disaster struck when it was time to place the cab on to the chassis. I had major clearance issues with the exhaust pipe and the floor front; the pipe is simply mounted too high. Even trimming away part of the floor in the space behind the firewall did not fix the problem.

It also appears the rear cab mounts are about 2mm too far forward.  

The builder will not have any luck in simply lowering the cab on to the chassis. It may be best to lower the body onto the chassis with the cab angled down then slide it forward, or try attaching the assembled cab interior onto the chassis, and then placing the cab onto the interior.

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