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Revell 1978 Corvette Indy 500 Pace Car

1978 Corvette
Revell No. 85-4188
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors: White, clear
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $20.99
Pros: Impressive appearance; detailed interior
Cons: Mold lines; decals; simplified detail level; problems with bumper/body/spoiler fit
For the most part, the kit is cleanly molded. However, I found and removed mold lines from the exhaust manifolds, exhaust header pipe, and the exhaust tail pipe and mufflers. I also removed mold lines on the sides of both front fenders and the tops of the rear fenders, continuing onto the door tops. I cleaned up other mold lines on the rear suspension, the seats, the rear view mirrors and the steering column.

There are 13 engine parts, and unlike contemporary kits, the engine block, oil pan, and transmission are molded in only two pieces. The engine contains less detail than many other kits; the oil filter is molded to the left half of the engine and the carburetor and distributor are molded with the intake manifold. For a clean appearance, I smoothed the seams between the engine halves.

Two of the color callouts were in conflict with the box art or my reference pictures. The air cleaner/snorkel is on the chrome sprue, but should be painted semigloss black. Likewise, the alternator is a chrome item but I refinished it with aluminum paint for greater realism.

The steering wheel is also a chrome piece, but I painted it to match the box art and my reference pictures. The master cylinder is a chrome piece, but most of it is painted gold and the cap is left with its chrome finish. The bottom of the master cylinder shows when looking at the bottom of the model; I filled the bottom hole and painted it gold, too
There is no spring, shock, or upper control arm detail for the front suspension, and the two-piece rear suspension is also limited in detail.

Unlike the engine and chassis, the ten-piece interior is more detailed.  There are separate armrests for the right and left door panels, and a separate shift lever and emergency brake handle. There are nicely detailed decals for all the gauges, radio faceplate, air-conditioner controls, and a gear shift pattern for the console.   

I decided that painting the body would be easier and produce better quality if I attached the front and rear bumper panels and rear view mirrors to the body, rather than joining them separately later.

Neither panel aligned properly with the body. I carefully bent the bottoms of the fenders out to solve the
problem. I also found that the front spoiler didn’t align well with the front fenders. Careful bending resolved that problem, too.

The authentic decals help make the kit what it is, but also provide considerable challenges.

The engine and interior decals go easily into place; other decals require much greater effort.

Wet the wheels before positioning the red stripe decals that go on the rims. Use wet cotton swabs to keep the red stripe decals pliable while carefully positioning them on the wheels.  

I also suggest wetting the body sides before applying the body decals. I used a wet cotton swab to keep the body side decals pliable while I carefully positioned them. Applying decal setting solution to all decals is a must.

The windshield and back window are nicely molded and fit quite well; however, they install from outside of the body and there are minimal surfaces available for gluing them in place.  

The completed model offers an impressive appearance and corresponds very well to the milestone 1:1 Pace Car.  I recommend it for modelers of medium-to-advanced skills.


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