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Revell Porsche 914/6

RELATED TOPICS: REVELL
Porschebox
Porsche 914/6
Revell No. 85-4378
Model Type: Inection-molded styrene
Molded Colors: White, clear, black
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $25.95
Pros: New decal sheet and tires
Cons: Lots of flash; much test-fitting required
Porscheunder
Porscheinterior
Porschelead
The Porsche 914 was a joint development by Porsche and Volkswagen as a lower-priced option to the 911 and a replacement for the Karmann Ghia.

The reissued kit’s parts are molded in white, with a tree of chrome-plated parts and two sets of clear parts – one for the race version and one for stock.  

A set of one-piece tires is new, replacing the original two-piece units. 

The decal sheet is also new, and offers a couple of sill stripe options for the stock version, and SCCA club-racing decals for the racer.

Step one: go out and get a new set of sanding sticks or files. You’re going to earn your flash-removal merit badge with this one.

The engine consists of top and bottom halves, front fan, and rocker covers.  Transaxle is left and right, with a separate rear mount. Molded-in detail is decent and good enough for what you can actually see when complete.

Fit of the top half of the engine to the bottom is pretty vague; but again, after assembly, you’ll hardly see it. 

The only difference between stock and race versions is the exhaust system, and leaving off the air cleaner. The race exhaust seemed to sit too far away from the engine, so I trimmed a little length from the pipes to bring them closer – even with the bottom of the rear pan.

The rear suspension consists of a swing arm with half-shaft for each side, and a shock absorber. The shocks seem too long; they force the swing arm up to where the half-shafts don’t line up with the transaxle, and the wheels cambered way out. I bent the axles until the wheels were straight. 

It would probably be better to cut a bit off the top of the shocks, to bring it all down; the ride height is a bit trucklike. 

The front suspension is much the same, with just a strut and lower A-arm for each side. The struts are keyed to keep the wheels pointing straight ahead. 

Final piece is the gear linkage, which doesn’t quite fit, either; it hits the front of the engine so it won’t drop into position in the chassis. 

The one-piece tires seem to bulge in the middle when mounted to the Fuchs-style wheels.

Interior assembly starts with the floor and back wall, with the passenger’s seat molded in place. The side panels are separate, as are the shifter, hand brake, foot pedals, and your choice of stock or possibly the widest racing seat I’ve seen. 

I had to file a bit off the front of the kick panels to get the door panels to move forward enough to line up with the back wall. There are instrument decals for the dash and a choice of stock or race steering wheels.

The body features and opening hood and rear deck lid, although I chose to glue the deck lid shut; there really isn’t anything to see anyway, and I figured it would help keep things aligned a little better back there.

I’m not sure if it made much difference, because the fit of the rear bumper and lower pan is not very good.  I glued it where it looked right, and filled and sanded the seam. Not sure it’s correct, but it looks OK. 

The front bumper fits much better, just needing a little trim on the ends.  The racing version gets a cut-down-style windshield, and it fit pretty well. 

There is a nice array of decals for an SCCA style club racer or stock versions and they performed very well.

This isn’t a shake-the-box kit, but with a little effort it can be made into a pretty nice-looking model. None of the problems are difficult to deal with; just a bit of sanding or filling  and definitely lots of test-fitting.

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