Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Revell Custom Chopper Set

Custom Chopper Set
Revell No. 85-7324
Model Type: Injection-molded styrene
Molded Colors: Majority of the parts are chrome-plated
Scale: 1/12
MSRP: $24.95
Pros: Multiple parts options
Cons: Several fit issues durring assembly
Either of two versions of a custom bike can be built from this kit, plus many variations within your basic choice. You get three styles of seats, wheels, and belt covers, along with two styles of tanks, fenders, exhaust pipes, front forks, and handlebars.

The 13-step instructions denote the parts and assembly sequence by means of images and numbers. The numbers correspond to a chart giving the part description.

Assembly starts with a twin-V-style engine. Don’t be tempted to attach the air cleaner now; this will cause a clearance problem when installing the engine in the frame.

The frame is joined at the upper bar, creating a seam at the bar and another at the fork tube. The bar seam is hidden by the seat and fuel tank, and the fork seam is hardly noticeable.

The front fork needs to be trapped within the frame before gluing the frame together. This allows a loose fit for the fork. Small vertical shims within the frame tube will tighten this up, but still allow the fork to move.

The rear fender also needs to be installed between the rails at this time. When it’s time to install the rear wheel, you will find this to be a tight fit. Installing but not gluing the fender now will allow more play to spread the frame when sliding the wheel onto the axle.

A clearance problem arose when I attached the exhaust pipes to the engine: the lower pipes would not snug up to the frame. Grinding at the upper attachment points was required on the engine and upper exhaust to allow the lower pipes to pull in.

This clearance problem appears to be caused by not enough radius between the vertical and upper horizontal pipe going to the engine. I hope the alternate exhaust style does not have this problem.

The exhaust ends of the pipes are molded solid. These can be opened by drilling or using a motor tool, as I did on this build. The alternate exhaust has scalloped recesses at the outlets that should be acceptable when they are painted black.

The rear of the seat made contact with the rear fender, preventing it from sitting low enough on the frame. A shallow radius across the lower rear of the seat will solve this.

The slots on the front fender where it mounts to the fork are different lengths, to ensure that the correct end of the fender is forward.

The chrome-plated rotors are molded with recessed (but solid) holes. Most of the holes on the rear rotor are molded open, but flashed over with chrome. Both rotors were opened with a hand drill, then painted to give a more-realistic appearance.

Two stripe designs are offered on the decal sheet. The decals used performed well, with no setting solution required. A couple of the fender side stripes had ragged edges on the print portion of the decal. Except for the rear fender, the decals were applied before I attached the parts to the model.

The majority of the parts are chrome-plated. Only a few have attachment points that will be visible after assembly. I covered them with foil, and they weren’t noticeable.

The kickstand is molded to scale, and as a result is not overly strong. Be careful when placing the model for display. The front wheel needs to be pointed toward the kickstand side to lean on the stand.


Read and share your comments on this article

Want to leave a comment?

Only registered members of are allowed to leave comments. Registration is FREE and only takes a couple minutes.

Login or Register now.
Free guide

Free guide

Graft Jaguar and Mazda bodies
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our privacy policy