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Hasegawa 1989 Yamaha YZR500

Yamaha YZR500
Hasegawa No. 21710
Model Type: Injection-molded
Molded Colors: Gray, white, clear
Scale: 1/12
MSRP: $29.99
Pros: Accurate representation; most parts fit well
Cons: Problems with cable length and attachment; difficult fit/alignment of fairings
This is not a kit for beginners, but experienced builders will appreciate its fine features, and it looks accurate.

Molded in gray, white, and clear, there are 162 styrene pieces in this kit.  The rubberlike slick tires are cleanly molded, and sidewall details are provided as water-activated dry transfers (although they apparently are not used on this version). Black and clear tubing is included for cables and lines.

There is a metal spring for the rear suspension and some metal screws. There are no plated parts.

The decal sheet is cleanly rendered by Cartograf, and the instructions are done as two individual sets: one for the assembly and the other for “exterior” painting and decaling. The detail- painting is called out in the assembly, and is informative. 

The basic assembly and detail levels are commensurate with other kits of this genre.

In some cases, multiple parts are used to make up assemblies that are often done as single pieces such as the tank exterior (two pieces), the rear cowl shell (four pieces), as well as some of the mechanical items. 

The parts fit well, so not much extra work is required. The fairings snap onto the frame and each other without the use of screws. This was an issue at final assembly.

After the body painting and decaling was done, I built the kit as shown in the instructions, for the most part. 

I suggest installing the lower/forward spark plug boots to the engine after the frame is assembled around the engine, to lessen the chance of knocking them off (as I did to one).

The left-side front brake cable came up too short (by about 1/4 inch) using the length specified in the instructions.  There is extra cable material, so that was an easy fix.

Unfortunately, the cables that attach to the dash are also too short (by at least 1/8 inch) and they are difficult to replace by the time the problem manifests itself.  I stretched them as far as possible, broke off the tach drive, and mounted it at an angle in an attempt to make up for the shortness. 

The pins on the parts that the cables plug onto are delicate; five pins broke after the tubing was attached. A couple more were broken (as well as two previously repaired) while fitting the rear fairing onto the bike.

The main/front fairings were more of a juggling act. I removed the paint from the mating surfaces, but still found it difficult to get the front, sides, and lower fairings to align with each other and around the frame and radiator. Cementing the left upper side fairing to the front and then mounting that to the frame worked somewhat.  

I cemented the right upper-side fairing to the front piece now on the bike, and snapped the lower fairing onto the sides. I could not get the body fairings to be removable and fit flush. It was either cement them on in places or leave them uneven-looking. 

Although little Phillips-head screws are not all that accurate to the 1:1 as are commonly used in these types of kits, I prefer that positive method of fastening the panels to the bike rather than way these panels fit together. 

The fairings’ paint should be fully dry before installation, because they will be subjected to a great deal of handling, and the cables and the parts that they attach to need to be treated carefully, because they are so susceptible to breakage. 


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