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Hasegawa Trust Porsche 962C

Trust Porsche 962C
Hasegawa No. 20283
Model Type: Injection-molded  styrene
Molded Colors: White, black, clear
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: $51.99
Pros: Quick, easy build; decals are thin but covered well
Cons: Flash on clear parts; cloudy headlight buckets; detail has softened slightly
The original tooling for Hasegawa’s curbside kit dates to 1989, and has been reissued several times, most recently in Revell Germany boxes.

At one time there were aftermarket decals for just about every version known to man, but these markings have not been available in kit form until now.

It’s a fairly simple kit: only 62 pieces, all molded in white. The tooling has held up pretty well for the most part, but there is a bit more flash than on some of my originals, and some of the detail has softened slightly.  

There are new parts for the headlight buckets with a wall between the two lights – something I have never seen on a 962C – and you end up cutting them off anyway.

Other than that, the kit is unchanged.  

The bottom of the chassis is clean and flat, to help with the aero effects of the venturi tunnels, so there isn’t much on the model either: just a few separate pieces for the rear lower control arms, rear body support, and tow hook.

A couple of tabs at the back of the chassis are actually part of the body, and should be painted white. I found it easier to just cut them off and attach them to the body where they belong, eliminating the need for masking.  

The wheels will need to be painted with your favorite chrome, and then the centers picked out in black.

If you use the brake cooling fans, you can pretty much skip painting the centers; you won’t see it anyway. Dry- transfer lettering is supplied for the tire sidewalls.

Each time I’ve built one of these, I’ve gone through the same quandary when it comes to painting the interior tub:   For some reason, Hasegawa provided a separate driver’s seat but decided to mold the passenger’s seat (required by regulations) in place. Is it easier to paint the silver first, then mask and paint the seat, or the other way around? I chose the former on this go-around.  

The sides of the radiator faces have lost a little fidelity, and could probably benefit from some aftermarket photo-etch. You will also need to supply your own seat belt details.

Little cleanup is necessary to prepare the body – just a few mold seams and some sink marks in the door sides. If you want to be totally accurate in reproducing the box-art car, other modifications will be needed, such as the rear brake scoops and exhaust outlets.  

Different versions of this kit also had different rear wing mounts, and to try to accommodate the versions, there is a set of plugs for the bottom of the wing that will need to be fitted, filled, and sanded. You will also need to drill the appropriate holes in the body shell.  

The clear parts are where the tooling showed its age the most, with a little more flash than elsewhere. The headlight covers also had a bit of cloudiness, which I fixed with a coat of Pledge Floor Care Multisurface Finish.

Many of Hasegawa’s recent reissues feature decals printed by Cartograf, but not this one. These have a rather dull sheen that’s more typical of their aircraft kits. Color and registration is good; they did cover well; and they responded to setting solutions when required. They are quite thin, however, so careful handling is required – especially with the pinstripes. 

If you build the version with the large Trust logo, I suggest cutting off the upper portion of the stripe and applying it separately.

Looking for a quick, easy build? This just might be your ticket.


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