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Hasegawa 1967 Toyota 2000GT

Hasegawa No. SP366
Molded Colors: Clear, black, chrome
Scale: 1/24
MSRP: 64.99
Pros: Excellent Bridgestone tires, Mylar chrome details, kit fitment Cons: Hood molded as a quasi-separate piece, gauge decals could be printed better, main dash wood-grain decal tricky to apply over raised details, fiddly front valance attachment

This 2000GT is a reissue, now with a female figure. It is a right-hand drive, curbside model with nice chassis detail and posable steering.

While only the bottom of the engine is represented, the body is molded almost as if there were possibly plans to include an engine. There are 72 pieces, a nice set of soft Bridgestone tires with sidewall and tread detail, and a decal sheet with Mylar faces, badging, gauges, and woodgrain trim for the interior.

Mold lines on the body are fine, but some, especially near the window trim, are a bit tedious to remove. Plastic is on the hard side and slows the sanding process.

Scribe the window trim before sanding mold lines to preserve them.

The hood is molded to the body in a unique way: fully separate except for four small tabs, making it easier to cut the hood out. However those tabs are flush to the top edges of the hood and fenders, so they interrupt the panel line.

If it were scribed to make that line uniform, the hood would be a separate piece too small to cement in place. I cemented a thin strips of sheet styrene to the inside of the body, then cut those tabs out.

I then trued the gap of the panel line with 400-grit sandpaper. I scribed other panel lines a bit heavier to aid continuity.

I also drilled holes in the fenders and bottoms of the mirrors with a No. 76 bit to make installing the mirrors easier. I suggest inserting brass pins in the mirrors before installing.

Factory colors of a 1967 2000GT were silver, red, white, or a pale yellow. I chose a nonprototypical pearl white, using Tamiya Fine White Primer as a base for the pearl white (TS-45) and pearl clear (TS-65) to raise the level of gloss.

Window trimming was done using Bare-Metal foil and hand-painting black. 

Taillight bezels are a tight fit into the body and require no cement; chamfer the inside edges of the bezels to avoid chipping the paint. Make sure the lenses are seated properly before installation. I painted the recessed areas of the bezels flat aluminum to match photos of the real cars.

The windshield fits nicely, and the side and rear-window piece fits almost as well. Formula 80 glue secures them.

Dash gauge faces are barely visible once applied, and it’d be better if they were printed just a bit bolder or legibly.  The clear carrier around them should be trimmed away right up to the images to make them fit without wrinkling.

Woodgrain decals for the dash have holes for the switches to poke through, but they are cleared over. A tiny X cut into each area fixes this.

The grille assembly goes together well.  I used Tamiya metallic gray (XF-56) for the areas called out as “steel.” The light covers fit so well without cement that I couldn’t even shake them loose. The trickiest part of the assembly is attaching the front valance and grille to the body and getting it lined up properly, since it doesn’t have a positive fit. It fits correctly, just a bit fiddly.

Canopy glue held it in place as any errant cement could be cleaned up. After drying, it was reinforced with super glue from the inside (the steerable wheels provided easy access). Then the little bumperettes hiding the seams were cemented on, further strengthening the bond. 

The  included figure is of a Japanese girl in a dress, with instructions for assembly and painting.

This is definitely a kit I’d like to build more copies of; it’s a very commendable model.   


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