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FROM THE February 2011 ISSUE

Filling ejector-pin marks

Filling-ejector-pin-marks
This diagram shows Ken's technique for filling ejector-pin marks.
Those lucky enough to have attended NNL East have probably seen Ken Walkley – one of the energetic members of the Tri-State Scale Model Car Club that puts on this humongous annual experience. Ken is also an accomplished modeler, and he offers a great tip for filling ejector-pin marks:

“Ejector-pin marks are bane of our hobby. Most model manufacturers do their best to hide them, but those pesky circles are always there.  

“Recently, I was working on an Auto Transport trailer.  On the bottom of every ramp were six to eight ejector-pin marks, and every one of them would be exposed on the finished trailer. I decided to try using a punch-and-die to make discs to fit into the round injector-pin indentations.

“I found a Tru-Punch die cutting set, made by Precision Brand, at an online auction site for less than $30 – a real bargain. I matched the punch rod diameter with the size of the ejector-pin mark, and began punching away, using .005" sheet plastic. I then used liquid cement, making a puddle in each mark and placing one of the plastic disks into the glue. I squeezed the disk down, making sure it melted thoroughly into the ejector mark.  

“To be doubly certain the part was fully adhered with no dry spots, I coated over the top with more liquid cement and left it all to dry.  

“The next day, I block-sanded all the filled ejector-pin marks smooth with the surface of the parts. Now I had ejector-pin marks that were filled with styrene, so the filler sanded just like the plastic model part.”

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